Recommend August 2011 - (Page 40)

central america ROADS LESS TRAVELED nicaragua Catch Island Fever Many of the most special travel experiences in Nicaragua happen on islands, both those afloat in Lake Nicaragua—a.k.a. Lago Cocibolca— and those off the Caribbean coast. Ometepe Island is the ecological crown jewel of Lake Nicaragua, which, incidentally, is roughly the size of Puerto Rico in area and the largest lake in Central America. Formed by two volcanoes—Conception still active and Maderas now dormant—and joined by a narrow strip of land, this gem of an island will appeal to nature lovers, archaeology buffs and adventurers. They can go hiking through dense tropical forests, mountain biking, horseback riding, guided climbing of both volcanoes, fishing and kayaking in Reserva Charco Verde; enjoy amazing birding, pre-Columbian petroglyph discovery (concentrated on the Maderaas side of the island) and coffee plantation touring; and relax on the island’s beaches. Playa Santo Domingo is considered the best of the beaches, located southeast of Altagracia on the east side of Ometepe, where you also find the island’s best accommodation, Hotel Villa Paraiso (villaparaiso.com). The most common access to the island is by ferry, making the 1-hour crossing from San Jorge on the mainland to Moyogalpa on the western side of the island; ferries run almost hourly, less frequently Sundays and not in bad weather. Less frequent service is available from Granada to Altagracia, home to the Ometepe Museum housing a small collection of ceramics found on the island. Zapatera Island, northwest of Ometepe, but most accessible from Granada, is a national park where visitors view vestiges of ancient tribes such as royal tombs, zoomorphic statues and a stone sacrificial altar connected to the now-resident Chorotega people. The 20 archaeological sites on the island date as far back as 500 B.C. Another lake-bound attraction is the Solentiname Archipelago, accessed by scheduled boat from San Carlos (twice weekly) to the dock at Mancarron Island or via private boat hire. The islands are known as the home of an artists’ colony established by the poet and priest Ernesto Cardenal in 1967. Today, local painters are producing soughtafter Primitivist paintings. Islands with artists at work in studios one can visit (and with visitor accommodations) are Mancarron, with its colorfully quirky local church (designed by Cardenal), and Elvis Chavarria (a.k.a. San Fernando), with a little museum and art gallery. Among the renowned art groups, the Pineda family lives on Chavarria and the Arellano family on La Venada Island, while Zapote Island provides sanctuary for a 20,000-bird colony. Visiting this fascinating corner of the lake is best arranged through a local tour company. On the Caribbean coast, 50 miles offshore—an hour by air from Managua or a boat ride away from Bluefields—are the idyllic (and mostly English-speaking) Big Corn and Little Corn islands. Fringed by sandy and quite wonderful beaches, crystal-clear waters and three pristine coral reefs, these laid-back islands are ideal for diving and snorkeling, kayaking, fresh seafood dining, and yes, just lying on a beach. The larger visitor infrastructure—including small hotels, well-equipped dive operations offering open-water and advanced courses, and golf carts for hire to go exploring—are on the 3.9-sq.-mile Big Corn Island. The best beach on this island is Picnic Beach, located on the south bay, and the best hotel is Casa Canada (casa-canada.com). Local tour operators remind us that it is wise to choose a hotel with its own restaurant or one adjoining, as well as one with its own generator should the lights go out. Boats depart from Big Corn for the 20-mile run to 1.1-sq.-mile/ population 515 Little Corn Island—the boat ride and the handful of local accommodations are for those looking for a balmy, barefoot, car-free, often electricity-free place in the sun. panama “Kuna Kingdom” is a World Apart A short flight from Panama City, yet occupying a world of its own, are the San Blas Islands—officially Comarca Kuna Yala, the autonomous territory of the Kuna Indians—whose women folk are dazzling in their gold nose rings, beaded arm ankle bracelets and blouses fashioned with a decorative appliqued art called molas, world-renowned symbols of Kuna culture and one of the most recognized images of Panama. Travelers can watch molas in the making on location, one of the many unique aspects of experiencing the islands’ indigenous lifestyle. However, other top rewards of a San Blas sojourn are swimming off white sand beaches, snorkeling along pristine coral reefs, kayaking from island to island, swinging in a hammock, enjoying coconut cocktails and lots of fresh fish, and joining the islanders in their motorized cayucos (dugout canoes) that travel to different settlements scattered across the archipelago. Access to the San Blas Islands is by boat or by air from Panama City’s domestic Albrook Airport, where, on checking in, you know you’re headed for an off-the-beaten-path place when both you and your baggage are weighed in before boarding the small aircraft that skims over mist-shrouded rainforest to various island landing strips. In planning and booking a San Blas stay, almost everyone needs an expert who knows Panama. For instance, not all islands have daily services, and lodgings are limited and rustic—some more so than others. Like all businesses in San Blas, lodges are owned and operated by the Kuna, and common to all lodges are: no hot water, limited hours for electricity, and room rates inclusive of meals, with drinks paid separately and in cash. In fact, this Kuna world is a cash only society, although luckily the national currency is the U.S. dollar. While the western islands are closest to Panama City, the more upscale lodges are in the eastern islands. For example, consider flying from Panama City to Actutupu, the main airstrip for these isles, and transfer a short distance by cayuco to the Dolphin Island Lodge (uaguinega. com), which occupies most of tiny Uaguitupo Island (a.k.a. Uaguinega). Reserve a “jr. suite” cabin with ocean views and terrace, hardwood recommend.com Nicaragua’s Corn Islands offer stretches of pristine, laid-back beaches. 40 august 2011 http://www.casa-canada.com http://www.villaparaiso.com http://uaguinega.com http://www.recommend.com

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Recommend August 2011

Editor"s Notes/Agent Speak
Hotel Desk: Regent Hotels & Resorts
Tour Talk: The Wayfarers
Africa Travel Options Mix the Classic with the New
Thailand's Koh Samui
Jade Mountain, Saint Lucia
Escaping to San Juan's Condado
San Juan Marriott Resort & Stellaris Casino
Playa del Carmen, Mexico
Central America: Roads Less Traveled
In Search of Flanders' Holy Ale
Downtown L.A. in the Thick of Things
Scrumptious Savannah
Cunard's Queen Elizabeth

Recommend August 2011